The Shahi Hammam holds a connection to the era of Mughal grandeur, during which Queen Noor Jahan, wife of Emperor Jahangir, was plagued by an incurable ailment that baffled all local herbalists (Hakeem) and physicians. Amid her suffering, a courtier mentioned a renowned Hakeem from Chiniot, Ilm Ud Din Ansari, leading the Emperor to summon him to Lahore in hopes of relieving the Queen’s pain. This historical backdrop adds further depth to the significance of the Shahi Hammam and its place in Mughal history
Upon his arrival at the Mughal court, Hakeem Ilm Ud Din Ansari quickly diagnosed the cause of the Queen’s pain—a cyst beneath her foot. Ingeniously, he prescribed walking on burning sand, which miraculously cured her. The city’s celebrations marked the Queen’s recovery, and the Hakeem was immediately appointed as the officer of the hospitals.
Historical records reveal that Ilm Ud Din’s prominence rose within the royal court. He gained the favour of Shah Jahan, Jahangir’s son, and played a crucial role in resolving numerous court manoeuvrings. Following Jahangir’s death, Shah Jahan ascended the throne and honoured the Hakeem with the title of Nawab Wazir Khan, eventually appointing him as the Governor of Lahore.
During his tenure, Wazir Khan adorned Lahore with a plethora of splendid structures, including grand mosques, lush gardens, luxurious baths (hammams), caravanserais, bustling bazaars, and opulent havelis. Among these, the construction of the Wazir Khan Hammam stands out. Today, this remarkable bathhouse, known as Shahi Hammam or Wazir Khan Hammam, continues to tell its fascinating story.
Shahi Hammam
Located inside the Delhi Gate, this historic site is another example of the Mughal architecture. As you walk through the giant arches of Delhi Gate, that was built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, you take your way on to the Royal Trail. There, on your left is the Shahi Hammam, which is an important part of Lahore’s cultural landscape. The Turkish-style bath house was built in the 17th Century by Hakim Ilm ud din Ansari or Wazir Khan.
Constructed in 1634, this Hammam was a marvel for the general public, with designated days for women and men. The walls boasted rich frescoes and intricate ghalib kari designs, reflecting local artistry. Inspired by Turkish architecture, the bathhouse featured 21 rooms, offering amenities such as bathing, massages, spa treatments, saunas, and haircuts.
The Hammam was divided into three main sections: the hot chamber, the warm chamber, and the cold chamber. The hot chamber, or steam room, was heated by a furnace located outside the bathhouse. The steam was directed into the chamber through a system of pipes and vents. The warm chamber was used for washing and scrubbing, and the cold chamber was used for relaxation.
Strategically located, the Hammam welcomed travellers entering Lahore through the Delhi Gate. Visitors could refresh themselves here before heading to the nearby Wazir Khan Mosque for prayers. The Hammam was impeccably managed, providing a fashionable and essential service for both travellers and locals.
Attendants greeted patrons, guiding them through the available services. The Hammami, or bath attendant, supplied towels and soap, directing guests to the waiting area until their turn. Once called, patrons enjoyed hot or cold baths and massages, all at affordable prices to cater to various economic classes. Imagine the grandeur of this place and the tranquil beauty it offered.
Yeas after the Mughals & the Hammam
As the Mughal era waned, so did the splendour of the Hammam. Under Sikh rule, its heating system was destroyed, and decorative ornaments were stripped from its ceilings and walls. The British Raj repurposed the Hammam into offices and residences for police and soldiers. Post-independence in 1947, it became a boys’ primary school, a girls’ vocational school, a dispensary, and various government offices. Residences for government employees were even constructed on the rooftop. The Department of Auqaf rented out the northwestern rooms (Hujras) as shops, and further encroachments disfigured the northern, western, and southern façades. These alterations not only damaged the structure but also caused water ingress into the foundations. Minor restoration efforts in 1991 proved unsustainable.
Conservation of Hammam
In 2012, recognising the Shahi Hammam’s historical significance, the Walled City of Lahore Authority removed fifty-two encroachments from its façade and initiated a comprehensive conservation plan. The Aga Khan Culture Services Pakistan provided technical support, and in 2014, the Royal Norwegian Embassy funded the conservation. By 2016, the restoration was complete, earning the Shahi Hammam the UNESCO Award of Merit for best conservation practices in Pakistan.
During the restoration, chemicals were used to remove the whitewash covering the frescoes, revealing the original artwork beneath. Fresco experts from Sri Lanka, in collaboration with students from the National College of Arts, meticulously restored these paintings. The Archaeology Department’s marble floors from 1991 were excavated to expose the ancient hypocaust system. Historians claim that the Hammam was once a vast complex, partially demolished during the British reconstruction of Delhi Gate. Excavations uncovered the foundations of these lost sections, along with the main water channel, now preserved for tourists. One original dome remains intact over the hot bath area. The waiting area has been transformed into a sitting area, and a small museum now occupies one of the galleries, displaying artifacts uncovered during the excavation.
Scientific aspect of this Hammam
Did Wazir Khan ever imagine how time would treat his beloved creation? Now, let’s delve into the most fascinating and scientific aspect of this Hammam: its ingenious functioning. Beneath its floors lay a network of steam channels, known as the hypocaust system. Large furnaces burned wood to heat water, producing steam that circulated through these channels, warming the floors and water reservoirs. Water pipes, cleverly concealed within the walls, supplied fresh water, while used water drained through floor channels into a central pipeline, eventually joining the main drain. Small ceiling openings provided ventilation and natural light. Each room had a specific purpose, from hot baths to cold baths and massages.
The Hammam Today
Today, this Hammam is a crown jewel of tourism inside Delhi Gate and along the Royal Trail. It draws thousands of visitors, standing as a testament to architectural brilliance. Remarkably, it is the only Hammam of its kind in Asia, unmatched by those in Shalimar Garden and the Fort in both beauty and scale. Indeed, Pakistan is fortunate to possess such historical masterpieces.
The Hammam is one of the most famous tourist spots right inside Delhi Gate and The Royal Trail which gets over thousands of visitors almost every day. Right outside the Hammam, the Walled City Authority established a souvenir shop and a small café for the toursits. The conservation of this heritage site was a first-of-its-kind project in Punjab as The Shahi Hammam is the only one of its kind in Asia and one will be unable to find this design and architecture anywhere else in the world. The heritage site is open to public to come and learn all that they can about the different chambers of the Hammam, how they functioned and the Mughal history.
Writer : Tania Qureshi (Historian, Writer, Heritage Analyst)
The writer can be reached on twitter.com/TaniaQureshi
